Crochet abbreviations
Patterns are written in shorthand to keep them short, which is unhelpful on your first day. Here are the stitches Crochet Bobble uses, then the pattern words, brackets and measurements you will meet in almost any pattern. These are US terms — the UK ones differ. A designer can also invent their own, so read the abbreviations a pattern gives you before you start.
Stitches
| Abbr. | Name | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| (sc, ch 2, sc) | Acorn Group (sc, ch 2, sc) | A single crochet, chain 2 and a single crochet, all worked into the same place, usually a chain space. Worked into 1 place, counts as 4. |
| 2-FPdc-dc tog | 2 Front Post Double Crochets and 1 Double Crochet Together | A double crochet and two front post double crochets, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. Used at the edge of a row, where the plain leg sits on the outside. Worked into 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| 2dc-bobble | 2-dc Bobble | The 2-double-crochet bobble: two dc worked into one stitch and left unfinished, then drawn together. Rounded, and still one stitch. |
| 2dc-cl | 2-dc Cluster | Two double crochets worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. Drawn with straight posts; a rounded one is a bobble. |
| 2dtr-cl | 2-dtr Cluster | Two double trebles worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 2tr-cl | 2-tr Cluster | Two trebles worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 3-dc shell | 3-dc Shell (3 dc in one stitch) | Three double crochets worked into the same stitch, fanning out. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 3. |
| 3dc-cl | 3-dc Cluster | Three double crochets worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 3dc-pc | 3-dc Popcorn | Three complete double crochets in one stitch, then closed into a raised bump through the top of the first. |
| 3tr-cl | 3-tr Cluster | Three trebles worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 4-loop puff | 4-Loop Puff | Four lengthened loops pulled up in one stitch, then closed in two steps: through all loops but the last, then through the last 2. Worked on a wrong-side row among single crochets, it bulges out to the right side. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| 4dc-bobble | 4-dc Bobble | The 4-double-crochet bobble: four dc worked into one stitch and left unfinished, then drawn together. Bulky, not wide: still one stitch. |
| 4dc-cl | 4-dc Cluster | Four double crochets worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 4dc-pc | 4-dc Popcorn | Four complete double crochets in one stitch, then closed into a raised bump through the top of the first. |
| 4hdc-puff | 4-hdc Puff | Four half-double-crochet loops pulled up in one stitch, then drawn through together. hdc carries no height marks, so the symbol is a bare bulb. |
| 4tr-bobble | 4-tr Bobble | A taller bobble: four trebles worked into one stitch and left unfinished, then drawn together. |
| 4tr-cl | 4-tr Cluster | Four trebles worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 5-loop star | 5-Loop Star | Five loops gathered at the top into one star. Three come from the star before it: the strand behind its eye, its last loop, and the stitch its last leg went into. Two come from the next 2 stitches. Chain 1 after it to make its eye. Worked over 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| 5dc-cl | 5-dc Cluster | Five double crochets worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| 5tr-bobble | 5-tr Bobble | A taller bobble: five trebles worked into one stitch and left unfinished, then drawn together. |
| 5tr-cl | 5-tr Cluster | Five trebles worked into ONE stitch, each left unfinished, then joined at the top. |
| angled puff | Angled Puff | A single crochet and a lengthened 3-loop puff, both worked into the same stitch. Work 1 sc, then [yarn over, insert the hook, pull up a loop] 3 times in that same stitch, lengthening the loops. Yarn over and draw through all the loops except the working loop, then yarn over and draw through the last 2. The puff leans over the next stitch, and rows of them look plaited. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 2. |
| beg | Beginning | Marks the start of a row or round — as in "beg ch" for the chain that starts a row. |
| beg 5-loop star | Beginning 5-Loop Star | Starts a row of stars. Chain 3, then gather a loop from each of the 3 chains and one from each of the next 2 stitches into one star. The chain is part of this stitch, so no separate turning chain is placed. Chain 1 after it to make its eye. Worked over 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| beg bobble | Beginning 3-dc Bobble | The 3-dc bobble worked at the start of a row or round: ch 2 in place of the first leg, then two unfinished dc into the same stitch, drawn together. Softer than the 5-dc version, and still one stitch. |
| beg bobble | Beginning 5-dc Bobble | A 5-dc bobble worked at the start of a row or round. There is no stitch below to build the first leg on, so a ch 2 stands in for it: ch 2, then four unfinished dc into the same stitch, and draw the lot together. Counts as one bobble, not as a chain plus a bobble. |
| beg pc | Beginning Popcorn | A popcorn worked at the start of a row or round. A popcorn is made of COMPLETE double crochets, so the chain that replaces its first stitch is a full ch 3 — not the ch 2 a bobble uses. Ch 3, four more dc into the same stitch, then drop the loop, hook into the top of the chain and pull through to fold the group forward. |
| beg-dc2tog | Beginning Cluster (ch 3 + 1 dc together) | Opens a round in place of a two-double-crochet cluster. You cannot work a double crochet where you are already standing, so the starting chain of three stands in for the cluster’s first leg and one real double crochet is gathered with it at the top. Takes two stitches and leaves one, exactly like dc2tog. |
| beg-dc3tog | Beginning Cluster (ch 3 + 2 dc together) | Opens a round in place of a full three-double-crochet cluster. You cannot work a double crochet where you are already standing, so the starting chain of three stands in for the cluster’s first leg, and two real double crochets are worked and gathered with it at the top. Takes three stitches and leaves one, exactly like dc3tog. |
| beg-dc5tog | Beginning Cluster (ch 3 + 4 dc together) | Opens a round in place of a five-double-crochet cluster. You cannot work a double crochet where you are already standing, so the starting chain of three stands in for the cluster’s first leg and four real double crochets are gathered with it at the top. Takes five stitches and leaves one, exactly like dc5tog. |
| beg-tr2tog | Beginning Cluster (ch 4 + 1 tr together) | Opens a round in place of a two-treble-crochet cluster. You cannot work a treble where you are already standing, so the starting chain of four stands in for the cluster’s first leg and one real treble is gathered with it at the top. Takes two stitches and leaves one, exactly like tr2tog. |
| BLO | Back Loop Only | Looking at the top of your piece where you see the V's, work under only the back loop of the stitch from the previous row — the loop farthest away from you. Leaves a ridge on the front and a stretchier fabric. Always paired with a base stitch — the symbol sits beneath an sc, hdc or dc rather than standing on its own. |
| bobble | 3-dc Bobble | The 3-double-crochet version of the bobble — 3 dc worked into one stitch and left unfinished, then drawn together by one final pull-through. Softer and a little less raised than the 5-dc bobble. |
| bobble | 5-dc Bobble | 5 double crochets worked into one stitch but left unfinished — each keeps its final loop on the hook (yo, insert, pull up, pull through 2 only). With all the loops gathered, yo and pull through every loop at once to draw them into a soft bump. Works at any count (2, 3, 5…) — more dc, bigger bobble. |
| BP 3dc-pc | Back Post 3-dc Popcorn | Three back post double crochets worked around the post of the same stitch, then closed into a popcorn: drop the loop, insert the hook from back to front through the top of the first one, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Worked around 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| BPdc | Back Post Double Crochet | Work around the post of the stitch below from the back. Pairs with FPdc to make ribbing and cables. |
| BPdc2tog | Back Post Double Crochet 2 Together | Two back post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| BPdc3tog | Back Post Double Crochet 3 Together | Three back post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| BPdc4tog | Back Post Double Crochet 4 Together | Four back post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 4 stitches, counts as 1. |
| BPdc5tog | Back Post Double Crochet 5 Together | Five back post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 5 stitches, counts as 1. |
| BPdtr | Back Post Double Treble Crochet | A double treble worked around the post of a stitch instead of into its top, from the back, so it lies on the back of the fabric. Worked around 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| BPhdc | Back Post Half Double Crochet | A half double crochet worked around the post of the stitch below, from the back. Pairs with FPhdc for lower-profile ribbing. |
| BPtr | Back Post Treble Crochet | A treble crochet worked around the post of the stitch below, from the back. Makes deep texture. |
| BPtr2tog | Back Post Treble Crochet 2 Together | Two back post treble crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| BPtr3tog | Back Post Treble Crochet 3 Together | Three back post treble crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the back and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| bull | Bullion Stitch | Yarn wrapped many times around the hook, then drawn through in one pass, making a dense little barrel of a stitch. The wrap count sets the height, so a bullion is as tall as you make it — the chart draws the common double-crochet height. Also called a roll stitch. Slow, and worth it. |
| ch | Chain | The starting point of nearly every project. Yarn over, pull through the loop on your hook. |
| ch-10 loop | 10-Chain Loop | A loop of 10 chains made between stitches and left hanging on the right side. It is not worked into anything, and the next row skips it, so it counts as no stitches. The loops are braided up the fabric later and caught by single crochets. |
| ch-12 loop | 12-Chain Loop | A loop of 12 chains made between stitches and left hanging on the right side. It is not worked into anything, and the next row skips it, so it counts as no stitches. The loops are braided up the fabric later and caught by single crochets. |
| ch-2 picot | Ch-2 Picot | A two-chain loop closed back on itself with a slip stitch. Worked into nothing and counts as nothing. |
| ch-4 picot | Ch-4 Picot | A four-chain loop closed back on itself with a slip stitch. Worked into nothing and counts as nothing. |
| ch-sp | Chain Space | The gap that is created to make an open space, usually for the next row to work into. Patterns often tell you to work into the space, not the stitch for chain spaces. Often stitches from previous row are skipped when making a chain space. |
| dc | Double Crochet | Yarn over first, then work the stitch off in two steps. Twice as tall as a single crochet. |
| dc-inc | dc Increase | Two double crochets worked into the same stitch, spreading into a V — one stitch becomes two. How flat pieces grow. |
| dc2tog | Double Crochet 2 Together | A decrease: two double crochets worked into separate stitches, joined into one at the top. |
| dc3tog | Double Crochet 3 Together | A decrease of three double crochets into one, gathered at the top. Often used as a cluster. |
| dc4tog | Double Crochet 4 Together | A decrease: four double crochets worked into four separate stitches, joined into one at the top. |
| dc5tog | Double Crochet 5 Together | Five double crochets drawn together into one stitch. The mirror of a five-double-crochet shell: the shell takes one stitch and gives five, this takes five and gives one, so the two cancel out and a fabric of alternating shells and 5-togethers stays the same width. |
| dtr | Double Treble Crochet | Yarn over three times before starting. Taller again than a treble. |
| fasten off | Fasten Off | Cut the yarn, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and pull snug to secure it. |
| FLO | Front Loop Only | Work under only the front loop of the stitch below, leaving a ridge on the back. Always paired with a base stitch — the symbol sits beneath an sc, hdc or dc rather than standing on its own. |
| FP 3dc-pc | Front Post 3-dc Popcorn | Three front post double crochets worked around the post of the same stitch, then closed into a popcorn: drop the loop, insert the hook from front to back through the top of the first one, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Worked around 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| FPdc | Front Post Double Crochet | Work around the post of the stitch below from the front, so the stitch stands forward off the fabric. |
| FPdc2tog | Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together | Two front post double crochets worked together, often two rows below around stitches already raised. Each leg is worked around its own stitch and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked into 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| FPdc3tog | Front Post Double Crochet 3 Together | Three front post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the front and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| FPdc4tog | Front Post Double Crochet 4 Together | Four front post double crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the front and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 4 stitches, counts as 1. |
| FPdc5tog | Front Post Double Crochet 5 Together | Five front post double crochets, each worked around its own stitch and left unfinished, then joined at the top. In a diamond pattern each leg wraps one post of the shell below. Worked into 5 stitches, counts as 1. |
| FPdtr | Front Post Double Treble Crochet | A double treble worked around the post of a stitch instead of into its top, from the front, so it lies on the front of the fabric. Worked around 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| FPhdc | Front Post Half Double Crochet | A half double crochet worked around the post of the stitch below, from the front. Shorter than FPdc, for lower-profile ribbing and texture. |
| FPtr | Front Post Treble Crochet | A treble crochet worked around the post below, from the front. Used for raised cables and basketweave. |
| FPtr2tog | Front Post Treble Crochet 2 Together | Two front post treble crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the front and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| FPtr3tog | Front Post Treble Crochet 3 Together | Three front post treble crochets worked together. Each leg is worked around its own stitch from the front and left unfinished, then joined at the top. Worked around 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| front dtr | Double Treble Worked Below, in Front | A double treble worked several rows below, into the unused front loop of a stitch there, and laid on the front of the fabric. The stitch behind it in the current row is skipped. Placed in front, so it shows on the right side. |
| front dtr2tog | Two Double Trebles Worked Below, Together | Two double trebles worked several rows below, each into an unused front loop, then joined at the top so they lie flat on the front of the fabric. Worked into 2 stitches, counts as 1. |
| hdc | Half Double Crochet | Yarn over, insert the hook and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all three loops at once. Sits between a single and double crochet. |
| hdc-inc | hdc Increase | Two half double crochets worked into the same stitch, spreading into a V — one stitch becomes two. |
| hdc2tog | Half Double Crochet 2 Together | A decrease: two half double crochets joined into a single stitch at the top. |
| hdc3tog | Half Double Crochet 3 Together | Three half double crochets worked together. Yarn over and pull up a loop in each of the next 3 stitches, then yarn over and pull through all 7 loops. Worked into 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| inc | Increase (2 sts in one st) | Two stitches worked into the same stitch below. This is how flat circles grow. |
| join | Join with Slip Stitch | Close a round by working a slip stitch into the first stitch of that round. |
| ldc | Linked Double Crochet | A double crochet that starts by picking up a loop from the horizontal bar in the middle of the stitch before it, in place of the first yarn over, so the two are joined down their length. It closes the gaps between tall stitches and makes a much denser fabric, useful when double crochet would be too airy. |
| long sc3tog | Elongated Single Crochet 3 Together | Single crochet 3 together with its loops pulled up to the height of a half double crochet before closing. Worked over 3 stitches, counts as 1. |
| loop dc | Double Crochet Worked Below into an Unused Loop | A double crochet worked into the loop left unused on a single crochet from the row before last. On a wrong-side row that is its free front loop; on a right-side row, its free back loop. The stitch behind it is skipped. |
| loop st | Loop Stitch | A single crochet worked so a loop of yarn is left hanging on the back. Builds shaggy, fur-like texture. |
| loop tr | Treble Worked Below into an Unused Loop | A treble worked several rows below, into the unused loop at the top of a stitch there. On a wrong-side row insert the hook from the back; on a right-side row, from the front. The stitch behind it is skipped. |
| ltr | Linked Treble Crochet | The treble version, linked at both yarn-overs. The taller the stitch the more it gains from being linked, because there is more gap to close. |
| magic ring | Magic Ring / Adjustable Loop | An adjustable loop you work the first round into, then pull tight — closes the center with no hole. The ring itself isn't a stitch; your count starts with the stitches you work into it. |
| mini nupp | Mini Nupp | Two double crochets worked into the back loop of one stitch and finished together. Worked on a wrong-side row among single crochets, it bulges out to the right side. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| paw | Paw (4 Spike Single Crochets Together) | Four long loops pulled up from rows below, 3 stitches 3 rows down and 1 stitch 2 rows down, kept loose in front of the fabric and closed together at the top of this row. Worked into 1 stitch of its own row, counts as 1. |
| pc | Popcorn Stitch | 5 complete double crochets in one stitch, then joined into a raised bump: drop the loop from the hook, insert the hook front to back through the top of the first dc, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through, so the group folds forward. Puffier and more raised than a bobble. |
| picot | Picot | A tiny chain loop closed back on itself. Used along edges for a decorative scalloped finish. |
| puff | 3-hdc Puff | 3 half-double crochets worked into one stitch but left unfinished — yo, insert, and pull up a loop three times, then yo and draw through all the loops at once. Soft and rounded; because it is hdc, the posts carry no marks. |
| rep | Repeat | Work the marked section again. Written patterns usually mark it with an asterisk: "*3 dc, ch 1; rep from * around". |
| rev sc | Reverse Single Crochet (Crab Stitch) | Single crochet worked in the opposite direction from usual: left to right if you are right-handed, right to left if you are left-handed. Gives a twisted, corded edge. |
| rnd | Round | One full circuit worked in the round, rather than a row worked flat and turned. |
| sc | Single Crochet | The shortest of the basic stitches. Insert, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both. |
| sc catching loop | Single Crochet Catching a Loop | A single crochet that secures a chain loop. Insert the hook into the stitch, lay the loop that sits behind the work on the hook, pull the yarn through and finish the single crochet. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| sc-inc | sc Increase | Two single crochets worked into the same stitch, so one stitch below becomes two above. The first increase most people learn, and the one that turns a flat strip into a shape. |
| sc2tog | Single Crochet 2 Together | A decrease: two single crochets joined into one. The standard way to shape amigurumi. |
| sc3tog | Single Crochet 3 Together | Three single crochets joined into one — a sharper decrease than sc2tog. |
| shell | Shell | Five double crochets fanned out of one stitch below. The building block of many classic edgings; a pattern's own shell may use another count, so check its special-stitches note. |
| sk | Skip | Pass over a stitch without working into it — usually paired with a chain to keep the count even. |
| sl st | Slip Stitch | The flattest stitch. Used to join rounds, move across without height, and finish edges. |
| slip knot | Slip Knot | The very first loop on your hook. Adjustable, so you can snug it up without over-tightening. It isn't a stitch and isn't counted — your stitch count starts with the first chain or stitch after it. |
| smock sc | Smocking Single Crochet (3 Rows Below) | A single crochet worked into two places at once: the unused front loop of the single crochet 3 rows below, then the back loop of the stitch below, finished as one stitch. It draws the rows together into smocking. Worked into 1 stitch, counts as 1. |
| sp | Space | A gap between stitches that you work into, rather than into the top of a stitch. |
| spike dc | Spike Double Crochet | A double crochet worked one row further down. The row itself grows only by a dc. |
| spike hdc | Spike Half Double Crochet | A half double crochet worked one row further down. The row itself grows only by an hdc. |
| spike sc | Spike Single Crochet | A single crochet worked one row further down, so a long spike shows over the row below. The row itself grows only by an sc. |
| spike st | Spike Stitch | A stitch worked down into a row below the current one, stretching a long spike over the fabric. |
| st | Stitch | A single completed stitch. "(12 sts)" at the end of a round tells you the count you should have. |
| star st | Star Stitch | Loops drawn up from several stitches and closed at the center, radiating like a star. |
| surface sl st | Surface Slip Stitch | Slip stitches worked over finished fabric to draw lines on top of it. Added after the piece is done. |
| t-ch1 | Turning Chain (1) | One chain to start a row of single or half double crochet. It is just height — it does not count as a stitch, so work into the very first stitch below as normal. |
| t-ch2 | Turning Chain (2) | Two chains of height. Like the single chain it does not count as a stitch — in Crochet Bobble patterns only turning chains of three or more stand in for the first stitch. Some published patterns write "ch 2, counts as hdc"; both conventions exist, so check the pattern's own note. |
| t-ch3 | Turning Chain (3) | Three chains to start a row of double crochet. Counts as the first stitch, so skip the stitch directly below it. |
| t-ch4 | Turning Chain (4) | Four chains to start a row of treble crochet. Counts as the first stitch. |
| t-ch5 | Turning Chain (5) | Five chains to start a row of double treble crochet. Counts as the first stitch. |
| t-ch6 | Turning Chain (6) | Six chains to start a row of triple treble crochet. Counts as the first stitch. |
| third loop | Third Loop (Camel Stitch) | Unique to half double crochet: a third horizontal loop sits behind the usual two, and working into it gives a knit-like ridge. Always paired with a base stitch rather than standing on its own. |
| tr | Treble Crochet | Yarn over twice before inserting the hook. Tall and open — works up quickly. |
| tr-inc | tr Increase | Two trebles worked into the same stitch. Increases quickly, because each stitch is tall as well as doubled. |
| tr2tog | Treble Crochet 2 Together | Two trebles worked together into one, drawing two stitches below into a single stitch above. The treble version of dc2tog, and the taller the stitch the more visible the slant it leaves. |
| tr3tog | Treble Crochet 3 Together | A decrease: three trebles worked into three separate stitches, joined into one at the top. |
| tr4tog | Treble Crochet 4 Together | A decrease: four trebles worked into four separate stitches, joined into one at the top. |
| trtr | Triple Treble Crochet | Yarn over four times to start. Very tall — mostly seen in openwork and lace. |
| V-st | V-Stitch | (dc, ch 1, dc) all in one stitch. Counts as three: two dc and the ch-1 space the next row usually works into. |
| W-st | W-Stitch | (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in one stitch. Counts as five. |
| yo | Yarn Over | Wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front. The building block inside almost every stitch. |
Working from a chart rather than words? Most of these have a chart symbol too — the legend is here, drawn at the height each stitch really is.
Pattern words
| Abbr. | What it means |
|---|---|
| alt | alternate |
| approx | approximately |
| bet | between |
| CC | contrasting color |
| cont | continue |
| dec | decrease |
| foll | following |
| lp | loop |
| m | marker |
| MC | main color |
| patt | pattern (also written pat) |
| pm | place marker |
| prev | previous |
| rem | remaining |
| RS | right side The side that faces out when the piece is finished. |
| sm | slip marker (also written sl m) |
| tbl | through back loop |
| tog | together |
| WS | wrong side The side that faces in. |
| yoh | yarn over hook Another way of writing yarn over (yo). UK patterns often write yrh, yarn round hook. |
| WIP | work in progress Whatever is currently on your hook. Said as the letters, W-I-P, and often plural in craft groups — "my WIPs". Patterns themselves say "your work" or "the piece"; WIP is what crocheters call it. |
| frog | to pull work back out Undoing rows on purpose, from "rip it, rip it". Nobody gets through a project without it, and it is a skill rather than a failure. |
| blocking | wetting and pinning a finished piece to shape Relaxes the stitches and squares up the edges. It is what turns a slightly wonky square into a flat one. |
| swatch | a small test piece Worked before a project to check gauge. The step everyone skips once and then never skips again. |
| skein | an oblong wound ball of yarn, ready to use The most common shop format. A hank is a loose twisted ring you must wind before use; a cake is wound flat and pulls from the center. |
| hank | a loose twisted ring of yarn Must be wound into a ball or cake before you crochet from it, or it tangles. |
More stitch shorthand
Stitch terms you will meet in patterns beyond the list above. Where one is a stitch above under another name, the note says so.
| Abbr. | What it means |
|---|---|
| BL | back loop, or back loop only Charted as BLO, drawn beneath the stitch it applies to. |
| FL | front loop, or front loop only Charted as FLO. |
| BP | back post The family prefix: BPdc, BPhdc, BPtr are all charted. |
| FP | front post The family prefix: FPdc, FPhdc, FPtr are all charted. |
| BPsc | back post single crochet A real stitch, but CYC defines no chart symbol for it and it is rarely charted, so Crochet Bobble does not draw it. |
| FPsc | front post single crochet As BPsc — named here, not charted. |
| bo | bobble Charted — see the 3-dc and 5-dc bobbles in the stitch list. |
| sh | shell Drawn here as a 5-dc fan; a pattern's own shell may use another count. |
| CL | cluster Several partly worked stitches finished together into one top. CYC's 3-dc cluster is charted here as the 3-dc bobble; puffs and popcorns are built differently and have their own abbreviations. |
| edc | extended double crochet |
| ehdc | extended half double crochet |
| esc | extended single crochet |
| etr | extended treble crochet |
| t-ch | turning chain (also written tch) Charted per length, t-ch1 through t-ch6. In Crochet Bobble patterns one or two chains are height only and three or more count as the row's first stitch. Published patterns vary, so read the pattern's own note. |
| ch- | refers to a chain or space already made, e.g. ch-1 space |
Brackets and asterisks
These are instructions too, and they do not all mean the same thing.
| Abbr. | What it means |
|---|---|
| * | repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed |
| * * | repeat the instructions between the asterisks as many times as directed, or repeat at the specified locations |
| [ ] | work the instructions inside as many times as directed What Crochet Bobble writes for a repeat, because it can only mean this. |
| { } | work the instructions inside as many times as directed |
| ( ) | work the instructions inside as many times as directed, OR work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space Genuinely means both in CYC's glossary. Which one is meant comes from context — "(3 dc) in next st" is a group, "(dc, ch 1) 6 times" is a repeat. |
Measurements
| Abbr. | What it means |
|---|---|
| " | inch (also written in) |
| cm | centimeter |
| g | gram |
| m | meter |
| mm | millimeter |
| oz | ounce |
| yd | yard |
Tunisian crochet
A different craft with its own long hook, also called Afghan crochet. Every row is worked in two passes, out and back, which is why it has its own words. Crochet Bobble does not teach it yet; these are here so a Tunisian pattern is at least readable.
| Abbr. | What it means |
|---|---|
| tss | Tunisian simple stitch |
| etss | extended Tunisian simple stitch |
| tks | Tunisian knit stitch |
| tps | Tunisian purl stitch |
| tfs | Tunisian full stitch |
| trs | Tunisian reverse stitch |
| ttw | Tunisian twisted stitch |
| tslst | Tunisian slip stitch |
| tsc | Tunisian single crochet |
| thdc | Tunisian half double crochet |
| tdc | Tunisian double crochet |
| ttr | Tunisian treble crochet |
| FwP | forward pass Tunisian is worked in two passes across the same row. |
| RetP | return pass |
The pattern words, brackets and measurements follow the Craft Yarn Council’s standard list.
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